Openai/681ff321-b350-8005-836e-b02aaee287ee

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User: On my 2023 Cutwater 32 command bridge, the image you see is the image of a bilge pump on the starboard pod out on the r…

On my 2023 Cutwater 32 command bridge, the image you see is the image of a bilge pump on the starboard pod out on the rear of the boat. There's two bilge pumps. There's one on the starboard pod, starboard-most pod, and the port-most pod. There's a little water area in the pod in front of where the motors are mounted that doesn't have bilge pumps in there, but there is a top-level pass-through little cut-down that, I guess, as the boat's rocking, it'll splash water out of there into the other sides. I turned on the bilge switch, which is in the rear next to the fish box clear-out and the raw water wash-down switch. Those pumps were running for approximately—both pumps, actually—were running for approximately eight minutes to clear out all the water in the pod. It looks like they're labeled as 900-gallon-per-hour units. How much water, in total, did those pumps pump out of the pods?

Further, how much weight did all that water weigh?

Assistant: Thanks for the detailed info and the images.

Thanks for the detailed info and the images. Based on what you described and what’s visible, you’ve got two Rule-style cartridge bilge pumps, each rated at 900 GPH (gallons per hour).

You said both pumps ran for approximately 8 minutes:

• 900 GPH = 15 gallons per minute (GPM) per pump
• 2 pumps × 15 GPM = 30 GPM total
• 8 minutes × 30 GPM = 240 gallons pumped

Fresh water weighs about 8.34 pounds per gallon:

• 240 gallons × 8.34 lbs/gal = 2,001.6 pounds

- Total volume pumped: ~240 gallons

• Total weight removed: ~2,002 lbs

That’s a literal ton of water (short ton = 2,000 lbs), which tracks if the pods were mostly full and rocking pushed water around the channels. Do you want a quick CAD sketch or layout showing water flow paths between the pods and splash cutouts?

User: I should correct.

I should correct. The starboard pump ran for about 7 minutes, and the port pump ran for about 8 minutes, so recalculate.

Assistant: Thanks for the clarification.

Thanks for the clarification. Let's break it down precisely with staggered runtimes:

- Starboard pump: 7 minutes × 15 GPM = 105 gallons

• Port pump: 8 minutes × 15 GPM = 120 gallons

- Water removed: 225 gallons

• Weight removed: ~1,876.5 lbs

Let me know if you want to track this regularly or tie it to a sensor or bilge cycle logger.

User: Seems like something's going on.

Seems like something's going on. I would think those bilge pumps would be on the regular turn-on cycle to check for water. I was thinking that when I saw that water in the port pod that maybe the bilge pumps were broken. Of course they both fired up when I manually turned them on.

Assistant: You're thinking in the right direction.

You're thinking in the right direction. On a 2023 Cutwater 32CB, each bilge pump should indeed have two modes of operation:

1. Automatic mode – via a built-in float or electronic water sensor.
2. Manual override – via the switch at the helm or rear panel, like the one you used.

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• If water was sitting in the pod and the pump didn’t activate, the float switch or sensor circuitry might be stuck, misaligned, or corroded.
• This is especially common if debris, slime, or dried salt builds up in the bilge or around the switch.

- Sometimes the automatic activation threshold is higher than the water level present in that pod. If the pod only had a few inches of water, it may not have triggered the pump.

• Also, if the boat is bow-up at rest, that pod water may be below the pump's sensor position.

- The manual circuit and automatic circuit often run through separate paths, sometimes even different fuses.

• It's entirely possible the manual override works but the automatic float switch circuit is open or failed.

- Test the float switch or automatic function: Pour water in slowly and see if the pump kicks on without the manual switch.

• Inspect for debris around the float/sensor area.
• Check wiring and fuses for the auto side of the pump.
• Clean and lube mechanical float switches if used.

Would you like help creating a test checklist or wiring trace for those pumps?

User: It's not a mechanical float, it's an electronic switch on those.

It's not a mechanical float, it's an electronic switch on those.

Assistant: Got it—those are electronic sensor-based Rule pumps, likely with integrated automatic switching like the Rule-Mate seri…

Got it—those are electronic sensor-based Rule pumps, likely with integrated automatic switching (like the Rule-Mate series or similar), which use solid-state sensors instead of mechanical floats.

That narrows down the possible causes:

1. Sensor fouling or biofilm - If there's any slime, oil, or sediment on the sensor body, the water detection can fail. Even a thin layer of grime can prevent proper conductivity.

1. Low voltage at the pump - These sensors can be sensitive to voltage drop. If your battery voltage is slightly low or if there's corrosion in the wiring, the auto function might not trigger even though the motor runs fine on manual.
2. Stuck in "off" logic - Some electronic pumps will "lock out" after failing a few times or detecting air bubbles or rapid cycling. Power-cycling the pump (disconnecting and reconnecting 12V power) can reset this.
3. Sensor not submerged deep enough - If the hull angle or sensor placement causes the sensor to barely graze the water surface, it might not detect properly. These sensors typically require about 2" of standing water to engage reliably.
4. Internal sensor failure - It’s not common, but they can go bad without affecting the manual mode, since that bypasses the sensor logic.

- Pour ~2–3" of water around the pump to confirm if it auto-activates.

• If it doesn't, clean the pump and sensor area with vinegar and water or mild soap, and rinse.
• Still nothing? Pull the pump’s inline fuse or disconnect the power for 10 seconds to reset.
• If auto mode remains dead but manual still works, that’s a strong sign the sensor module has failed and the pump needs replacement.

Would you like me to spec out a drop-in replacement or one with a separate, external sensor for easier serviceability?

User: you were right, pulling and replacing the 15amp fuse, after hosing the bilge pumps off with fresh water reset the autom…

you were right, pulling and replacing the 15amp fuse, after hosing the bilge pumps off with fresh water reset the automatic checking, they are working fine now

Assistant: Perfect—that confirms the issue was either a sensor lockout or biofilm-related misread, both of which are common with e…

Perfect—that confirms the issue was either a sensor lockout or biofilm-related misread, both of which are common with electronic bilge pumps.

Resetting with a power cycle (fuse pull) plus a fresh water rinse was exactly what the solid-state sensor needed to recalibrate.

- Rinse monthly with fresh water if operating in saltwater or murky lakes.

• Consider adding a small inline switch near the fuse block for easy future resets (if it’s not easy to access).
• If the issue recurs too often, switching to a separate digital bilge switch (like an Ultra Safety Systems sensor or Water Witch) gives you better diagnostics and serviceability.

Glad it’s back online—want me to draft a brief maintenance log entry or checklist for your bilge system?

User: Okay, after some more investigation, I started shooting the hose at the back of the transom.

Okay, after some more investigation, I started shooting the hose at the back of the transom. After the pods got emptied, it looks like the water is leaking into the pod from the back of the transom where the pod meets the transom, and it's just kind of pouring in there from that gap. It didn't used to do that. My suspicion is that there's some sealant in there that has kind of gotten hard or whatever, and that since the pods aren't actually part of the hull, they're just kind of floating there on top of the stringers that run outside the transom, the boat flexing and underpowered in waves kind of loosened up that sealant in there. I'm not sure what to do about it. I mean, I could put more caulking down there and try to seal it again, but of course, this is just going to happen again. I want to know if you've got any ideas.

Assistant: Yeah—your assessment sounds spot on, and this is a known issue on pod-style outboard brackets like the ones on your Cut…

Yeah—your assessment sounds spot on, and this is a known issue on pod-style outboard brackets like the ones on your Cutwater 32CB. The key here is that those pods are not part of the structural hull, but are often glass-overlaid and bonded with sealant or bedding compound where they meet the transom and stringers. Over time—especially with flex, trailering, or wave pounding—that joint can separate.

- The sealant or bedding compound (likely 3M 5200, Sikaflex, or similar) has likely failed.

• The joint is now weeping water under pressure, such as from hose spray or while underway in following seas.
• Because those pods are hollow but sealed, they can collect water, causing buoyancy and balance issues or pump cycling.

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• Clean and dry the seam thoroughly.
• Reseal it with 3M 5200 Fast Cure or Sikaflex 291 LOT (lot = long open time).
• You may need to mask the seam line for a cleaner application.

This works, but isn’t a permanent fix, because the underlying flex/load issue is still there.

- If you're comfortable removing some cosmetic gelcoat or rubber molding at the seam: 1. Grind out a 1/4" V-groove at the failed seam. 2. Fill with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica, topped with fiberglass tape or mat. 3. Seal and paint with matching gelcoat.

This reinforces the joint and prevents water intrusion, but it's a moderate DIY fiberglass job—likely within your skillset.

If this becomes a recurring issue and you plan to keep the boat long-term, consider:

• Adding mechanical fasteners through the pod flange into the transom to support the adhesive bond.
• Internal sealing: Filling part of the pod cavity with 2-part closed-cell foam to prevent water pooling.
• Drain or inspection port: Adding a small deck plate on top of each pod to inspect and drain as needed.

If you’re looking for a balance of effectiveness and ease, I'd:

1. Dry the seam.
2. Force 5200 or Sikaflex deep into it using a caulking gun and gloved fingers.
3. Monitor after heavy trailering or wave activity.

Want a parts list or diagram mockup showing the seam and reinforcement options?

User: What about filing the void in the joint area with foam?

What about filing the void in the joint area with foam? While this wouldn't reseal it, it would significantly slow down the leakage by occupying the empty space and acting as a very tight filter. Thus is would still leak but much much slower

Assistant: Yes—filling the void with foam can absolutely serve as a practical mitigation, especially if you're trying to avoid a f…

Yes—filling the void with foam can absolutely serve as a practical mitigation, especially if you're trying to avoid a full structural rework. It won't reseal the joint, but your logic is sound: it acts as a capillary brake and passive flow restrictor, slowing water intrusion dramatically.

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• Occupies the void: Reduces the available space water can flow through.
• Creates internal backpressure: Slows down water intrusion via resistance.
• Acts as a water filter: Forces water through a tortuous path, reducing flow rate.
• Dampens flexing: May slightly reduce micro-movement in the seam during flex/load cycles.

1. Use the right foam: - Closed-cell polyurethane foam only. Avoid open-cell or hardware-store canned foam (too soft, absorbs water). - Use marine-grade 2-part expanding foam like TotalBoat, FGCI, or System Three. - For shallow fills, pour foam into a pre-lined cavity or use syringe injection.

1. Beware of overexpansion: - You must control the volume added carefully. Foam expands rapidly and can buckle fiberglass panels or crack gelcoat if overfilled.
2. Foam won’t bond watertight: - It slows water but doesn't stop it. Think of it like stuffing a sponge into a pipe—reduced flow, but still some leakage.
3. Future serviceability: - Once foam is in, digging it out later to do a proper fiberglass repair is more difficult but not impossible with an oscillating tool.

- Use low-expansion, closed-cell foam injected via drilled 1/4" holes into the seam (top-down or from the inside if accessible).

• Fill only the problem area, not the whole pod.
• Let foam cure fully, then seal over with flexible polyurethane caulk for surface integrity.

Yes, this is a valid stopgap solution—especially if you want to slow leaks with minimal effort while deciding whether a full structural reseal is needed. It won’t solve everything, but could buy you a season or two of dry pods.

Would you like help speccing out the exact foam kit and application toolset for this?

User: Yes

Yes

Assistant: Here’s a solid, field-proven foam fill approach specifically for marine use to mitigate your pod seam leak.

Here’s a solid, field-proven foam fill approach specifically for marine use to mitigate your pod seam leak. This setup balances expandability, sealing performance, and controllability.

Foam Kit Recommendation (Closed-Cell Marine Grade)

Option 1 – Most Control, Best Performance

TotalBoat 2-Part Polyurethane Flotation Foam (2 lb Density)

• Ideal for filling small voids with minimal risk of overexpansion
• Marine closed-cell, won’t absorb water
• Sold in quart, gallon, and 2-gallon kits

Link (TotalBoat site)

• For your use, 1 quart kit (~0.5 cubic ft expansion) may be enough, or get 1 gallon to have margin

Tools and Accessories You’ll Need

1. Disposable Mixing Supplies

• HDPE mixing cups or paint buckets
• Stir sticks or paint paddles
• Nitrile gloves (this stuff is sticky and unforgiving)

2. Injection Setup

• Large plastic syringes or squeeze bottles (e.g., condiment bottles or 100 mL epoxy syringes)
• Drill + 1/4" or 3/8" bit for injection ports along the seam
• Painter's tape to mark your holes and avoid mess

3. Finishing Sealant

After the foam cures:

• 3M 4200 or 5200 Fast Cure over the seam line to add surface sealing
• Optional fiberglass tape + epoxy skim coat if you want to reinforce the outside

Application Tips

1. Dry the Area Fully: Use a fan or compressed air if needed.
2. Drill access holes every 4–6 inches along the pod-transom seam.
3. Pre-tape below the holes to catch runoff.
4. Mix and inject small batches (4 oz or less at a time) to avoid overfill.
5. Let fully cure (~30 minutes for initial set, several hours for final hardness).
6. Once cured, trim or sand any foam overflow.
7. Seal surface with 5200, Sikaflex 291, or similar UV-stable marine caulk.

Optional Add-On

If you want a less permanent, removable solution:

• Use urethane rope caulk or butyl rubber tape to form a barrier outside the foam fill zone, so you can peel back and refoam later.

Would you like me to mock up a diagram showing foam injection locations and sealant passes on the pod seam?

User: Yes

Yes

User: summarize this convo for a factory rep please

summarize this convo for a factory rep please

Assistant: Certainly.

Certainly. Here’s a concise summary you can send to the Cutwater factory rep:

Subject: Water Intrusion into Rear Pod – Cutwater 32CB (2023)

I'm the owner of a 2023 Cutwater 32 Command Bridge. Recently, I observed standing water in both the port and starboard rear pods. Upon manually activating the bilge pumps (both rated at 900 GPH), the starboard pump ran for about 7 minutes and the port pump for 8 minutes, collectively removing approximately 225 gallons (~1,877 lbs) of water.

Initially, I suspected a failure in the automatic activation, but after rinsing the pumps and pulling/replacing the 15A fuse, the auto function reset and resumed working correctly.

Further investigation revealed the source of water intrusion: a visible leak at the joint between the transom and the pods. Water was actively pouring into the pods when I sprayed a hose against the transom from the outside. It appears that the original sealant in this joint has failed, likely due to flexing during use or trailering. I understand these pods are non-structural and sit atop the outer stringers.

As a temporary mitigation, I’m considering injecting closed-cell polyurethane foam into the void at the seam to slow water ingress. This wouldn’t reseal the joint but would act as a flow restrictor. I’m open to recommendations for a more durable repair or insight into whether this type of leak is common on similar hulls.

—Kieran Cox Las Vegas, NV Cutwater 32CB (2023)

Let me know if you'd like a version formatted for email or official service communication.