Openai/694dfcaf-68dc-800b-bae4-d240abece78b

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User: What is this it’s from the engine of a 2010 mercury Milan premier

What is this it’s from the engine of a 2010 mercury Milan premier

Assistant: From the photo and knowing it came off a 2010 Mercury Milan Premier, this looks very much like a broken oil pressure se…

From the photo and knowing it came off a 2010 Mercury Milan Premier, this looks very much like a broken oil pressure sensor (oil pressure switch).

Here’s why that fits 👇

- Black plastic body with a hex (meant for a wrench)

• Metal threaded section that screws into the engine block
• Oil residue on the tissue
• Looks snapped, with the metal end separated from the plastic housing

That’s exactly how the oil pressure sensor is built—and they’re known to crack or shear off when aged or overtightened.

The oil pressure sensor:

• Screws into the engine block
• Monitors oil pressure
• Sends the signal to your dash light or gauge

- Oil leaking from the engine

• Oil pressure warning light coming on
• Engine may shut off or refuse to start (depending on failure)
• Oil spraying or dripping quickly after start

- Near the oil filter housing or

• On the side of the engine block
• Often toward the rear of the engine, closer to the firewall

- Do NOT run the engine until this is fixed — you can lose oil fast

• The broken threaded piece may still be stuck in the engine
• It will need to be: - Carefully extracted (easy-out or extractor), then - Replaced with a new oil pressure sensor

- The part itself is cheap ($15–$40)

• Labor is usually quick unless the threads are badly stuck

If you want, tell me:

• 2.5L or 3.0L engine?
• Did oil suddenly start leaking?
• Did an oil light come on?

I can then:

• Confirm 100% which sensor it is
• Tell you exact location
• Walk you through removal/replacement step-by-step 👍

User: It is a 3.0L engine and the oil light have been on

It is a 3.0L engine and the oil light have been on

Assistant: Got it — 3.0L V6 + oil light on lines up perfectly with this being the oil pressure sensor on your 2010 Mercury Milan P…

Got it — 3.0L V6 + oil light on lines up perfectly with this being the oil pressure sensor on your 2010 Mercury Milan Premier.

Here’s the clear picture and what to do next 👇

Oil Pressure Sensor / Oil Pressure Switch

On the 3.0L Duratec V6, this sensor:

• Screws directly into the engine block
• Has a plastic upper body (what snapped)
• Common failure point as they age

When it breaks:

• The oil light turns on
• Oil can leak fast
• The sensor can no longer read pressure

- Passenger side of engine

• Toward the rear (firewall side)
• Near the oil filter housing
• One electrical connector plugged into it

You’ll likely find:

• The plastic part missing
• The metal threaded stub still stuck in the block

- Do not start or run the engine

• Do not drive it Running it like this can dump oil and cause serious engine damage.

###

• Spray penetrating oil
• Use a bolt extractor / easy-out
• Turn counter-clockwise
• Be patient — don’t force it

(A shop can do this quickly if you don’t have extractors.)

- Part name: Oil Pressure Sensor / Switch

• Engine: 3.0L V6
• Use a small amount of thread sealant (if not pre-coated)
• Snug tight — do not over-torque

- Plug electrical connector back in

• Check oil level
• Start engine
• Oil light should go off within 1–2 seconds

- Sensor: $15–$40

• Extracting broken piece (shop): $50–$150
• Total repair usually under $200

- Plastic becomes brittle with heat

• Slight overtightening during a past repair
• Age-related failure (very common on this engine)

If you want, I can:

• Show you a diagram of the exact location
• Tell you which tool size you’ll need
• Help you decide DIY vs shop
• Find the exact part number for AutoZone / O’Reilly / Advance

Just say the word 👍

User: Yes

Yes

Assistant: Here’s what I see in your image — it looks like a broken engine component, and based on the shape, metal wear, and your…

Here’s what I see in your image — it looks like a broken engine component, and based on the shape, metal wear, and your symptoms (oil light on, 3.0L Milan engine), this very likely is part of the:

- What it does: Sits at the bottom of the oil pan and feeds oil into the pump.

• Failure signs: If it breaks or cracks, the pump can’t get oil properly → oil light, low oil pressure.
• Look: A mesh screen and a tube — can appear bent or torn.

- What it does: Part of the valve train that transfers motion from cam to valve.

• Failure signs: Broken or fractured part camouflaged by oil; might be a piece of a rocker arm or lifter.

Seeing a chunk of metal like that inside an engine — especially related to the oiling system — is a red flag. If this came out of the oil pan or near the front of the engine:

• The engine may have severe internal damage
• Metal debris may have circulated through bearings, cam, crank, etc.
• Oil starvation likely occurred

1. Don’t run the engine.

Running it could worsen damage.

1. Drain the oil pan and look for more debris.

Metal inside the oil pan means more broken parts.

1. Inspect the oil pump and pickup for damage.
2. Have a mechanic open up the front cover / oil pump area.

They can identify exactly which part failed.

User: Uploaded an imageUploaded an image

Uploaded an imageUploaded an image

Assistant: Thank you for the extra photos — this confirms it 100% 👍

Thank you for the extra photos — this confirms it 100% 👍 This is NOT an internal engine part. You avoided a much worse situation.

Broken Oil Pressure Sensor (Oil Pressure Switch)

From a 2010 Mercury Milan Premier – 3.0L V6

- Black plastic electrical connector end (snapped clean off)

• Hex section for a wrench
• Threaded metal base that screws into the engine block
• Shear break line exactly where these sensors commonly fail
• Oil residue = oil leaking through the cracked sensor

This part does NOT come from inside the engine — it screws into the outside of the block.

✅ Good news:

• Your engine likely is not damaged
• No broken internal components
• No oil pump or bearing failure indicated by this part

⚠️ But:

• The oil pressure light is on because the sensor failed
• Oil may be leaking or already low
• Running it like this risks engine damage

###

Most likely:

• The threaded metal tip is still stuck in the block

Look where the sensor screws in (rear/passenger side near oil filter housing).

- Use a bolt extractor / easy-out

• Turn counter-clockwise
• Go slow — aluminum threads

(A shop can do this easily if you don’t have extractors.)

- Part name: Oil Pressure Sensor / Switch

• Engine: 3.0L V6 Duratec
• Cost: $15–$40
• Light thread sealant only (many come pre-coated)

- Verify oil level before starting

• Start engine
• Oil light should turn off within 1–2 seconds

- AutoZone

• O’Reilly
• Advance Auto
• Ask for: “Oil pressure switch for 2010 Mercury Milan 3.0L”

- Don’t start the engine until repaired

• Don’t try to glue or tape the old one
• Don’t overtighten the new sensor

If you want, I can:

• Tell you exact tool sizes
• Show exact location with a diagram
• Walk you through DIY removal safely
• Help you decide DIY vs mechanic

Just tell me 👍

User: Yes

Yes

Assistant: Perfect — here’s everything you need, clean and step-by-step, so you can decide DIY or shop with confidence.

Perfect — here’s everything you need, clean and step-by-step, so you can decide DIY or shop with confidence.

Oil Pressure Sensor / Oil Pressure Switch

For 2010 Mercury Milan – 3.0L V6 (Duratec)

Common part numbers (any of these are fine):

• Motorcraft: SW-6350 (most OEM-correct)
• AutoZone (Duralast): PS404
• O’Reilly (Import Direct): OPS104
• Advance (Carquest): S1006

💲 Cost: $15–$40

- Passenger side of engine

• Toward the rear (firewall side)
• Just above / near the oil filter housing
• One electrical connector plugs into it

If you look down behind the engine on the passenger side, you’ll see:

• An unplugged connector
• A hole or broken metal stub where the sensor snapped

- Deep socket: usually 27mm (1-1/16") for the sensor

• Bolt extractor / easy-out (for the broken threaded piece)
• Ratchet + short extension
• Penetrating oil (PB Blaster / WD-40)
• Thread sealant (only if new sensor isn’t pre-coated)
• Shop rags

###

1. Spray penetrating oil — wait 5–10 minutes
2. Insert bolt extractor into the broken metal stub
3. Turn counter-clockwise
4. Go slow — the block is aluminum

⚠️ If it won’t budge → stop and take it to a shop (cheap fix, prevents stripped threads).

1. Light thread sealant (if needed)

1. Thread in by hand first
2. Snug tight — do NOT over-tighten - About 12–15 ft-lbs (hand-tight + a small turn)

1. Plug electrical connector back in

1. Check oil level (top off if needed)
2. Start engine
3. Oil light should go off in 1–2 seconds

- DIY time: 30–60 minutes

• Shop time: 20–30 minutes
• Typical shop cost: $80–$200 total

- ❌ Do not drive until fixed

• ❌ Do not overtighten the new sensor
• ❌ Do not reuse the broken one

This is a very common failure on the 3.0L V6.

You caught it before engine damage — that’s a win.

If you want, tell me:

• Do you have basic tools?
• Is the broken piece still stuck in the engine?

I’ll tailor the next steps exactly to your situation 👍

User: Broken pieces still in engine

Broken pieces still in engine

Assistant: Okay — thanks for confirming.

Okay — thanks for confirming. Since the broken threaded piece is still in the engine, here’s the safest, least-risk way to handle it. This is one of those jobs where technique matters more than muscle.

⚠️ First: Do NOT start the engine

Even briefly. Oil can dump fast from that port.

Best & Safest Removal Plan (ranked)

🥇 BEST OPTION (Lowest risk)

Have a shop extract it

• This is a 10–20 minute job for a mechanic
• Typical cost: $50–$100
• They have: - Left-hand extractors - Heat - Thread chasers if needed

👉 This avoids stripping the aluminum block, which would turn a cheap fix into a big repair.

🥈 DIY OPTION (Only if you’re comfortable)

If you want to try it yourself, do it exactly like this:

🛠️ DIY Extraction — Step by Step

Tools you MUST have

• Left-hand bolt extractor / easy-out (spiral type)
• Penetrating oil
• Small hammer
• Ratchet (not an impact)
• Magnet or shop vacuum

Step 1: Prep

1. Spray penetrating oil into the broken sensor hole
2. Wait 10–15 minutes
3. Wipe excess oil away

Step 2: Seat the extractor

1. Insert the extractor into the broken metal piece
2. Tap it lightly with a hammer so it bites
3. Keep it straight — very important

Step 3: Remove (slowly)

1. Turn counter-clockwise
2. Apply steady pressure
3. If it moves even a little → keep going slowly

🚨 STOP immediately if:

• It won’t move
• It feels like it’s expanding
• You feel the aluminum threads starting to grab

Forcing it = stripped block.

Step 4: Clean threads

• Use brake cleaner or a rag
• If available, gently chase threads (do NOT re-tap unless damaged)

🚫 What NOT to do

• ❌ Don’t use heat near plastic wiring
• ❌ Don’t use an impact gun
• ❌ Don’t hammer aggressively
• ❌ Don’t drill deep (metal shavings in engine = bad)

After Removal

1. Install new oil pressure sensor
2. Hand-thread first
3. Snug only (12–15 ft-lbs)
4. Reconnect plug
5. Top off oil
6. Start engine → oil light should go off in 1–2 seconds

⚠️ If it breaks worse

If the extractor snaps or the threads strip:

• The block may need: - Thread insert (Helicoil), or - Professional repair

This is why many people choose the shop for this step alone.

My honest recommendation

Because this is:

• Aluminum block
• Small threaded port
• Critical oil passage

👉 Let a shop extract it, then you can install the new sensor yourself if you want.

If you want, tell me:

• Do you have extractors already?
• Is the broken piece flush or recessed?

I’ll guide you precisely for your situation 👍