Openai/693bbfbe-99d8-800d-9dba-13c2ec719b3a
This conversation was exported from ChatGPT[1]
gpt-5-1[edit | edit source]
User: MOSFET desoldering heat blower[edit | edit source]
MOSFET desoldering heat blower
Assistant: Here’s a clear, practical guide for desoldering a MOSFET using a heat blower hot-air rework station — useful for PCBs, …[edit | edit source]
Here’s a clear, practical guide for desoldering a MOSFET using a heat blower (hot-air rework station) — useful for PCBs, motherboards, power boards, etc.
✅ Tools You Need[edit | edit source]
- Hot-air rework station (heat blower)
- Flux (very important — reduces melting temp & protects pads)
- Tweezers or small pliers
- Aluminum tape or heat-resistant tape (optional)
- Soldering iron (optional but useful)
- Kapton tape (optional, protects nearby components)
🔥 Heat Blower Settings[edit | edit source]
Typical starting point:
For standard MOSFETs on normal PCBs[edit | edit source]
- Temperature: 320–380 °C
- Airflow: Medium
- Distance: 1–2 cm from component
For motherboards / heavy copper power boards[edit | edit source]
- Temperature: 380–420 °C
- Preheat bottom of board if possible
- These boards have thick copper layers that soak heat.
🛠️ Steps to Desolder a MOSFET (Correct Way)[edit | edit source]
1. Protect Nearby Components[edit | edit source]
Use Kapton tape or aluminium tape to cover parts you don’t want to heat.
2. Apply Flux Around the MOSFET[edit | edit source]
Flux is essential. It lowers the melt point of the solder and reduces pad damage.
3. Preheat the Area[edit | edit source]
Hold the heat blower 5–8 cm away for 5–10 seconds to prewarm the PCB.
This reduces thermal shock.
4. Focus Heat on the MOSFET[edit | edit source]
Move the nozzle in circular motion around the MOSFET. Stay 1–2 cm above the component.
Time needed:
- Small MOSFETs: 10–20 sec
- Large MOSFETs or power boards: 20–50 sec
5. Lift the MOSFET Gently[edit | edit source]
Use tweezers to lightly lift one corner.
- If it doesn’t lift easily, DO NOT force it.
- Continue heating 5–10 seconds and try again.
Forcing causes pad lifting, which is the biggest mistake.
6. Clean Up Pads[edit | edit source]
After removal:
- Add a bit of fresh solder
- Heat with iron
- Wick away solder using copper wick
- Add flux and clean with IPA
Pads should look shiny and flat.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid[edit | edit source]
| Mistake | Why it's bad | | --------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------- | | Overheating >20–30 seconds continuously | Can burn pads or delaminate PCB | | Pulling MOSFET before solder melts | Pads will tear off | | Airflow too strong | Blows off nearby SMD components | | No flux | Harder to melt; high risk of damage | | Heating only one side | Uneven expansion causes stress |
🧰 Bonus Tips[edit | edit source]
✔ For through-hole MOSFETs[edit | edit source]
Use a combination of:
- Hot-air from bottom
- Soldering iron on each leg
- Solder sucker/wick
✔ For MOSFETs with large thermal pads (PowerMOS, DPAK, QFN)[edit | edit source]
You need higher heat + more time because the heat pad absorbs energy.
If you want, I can also provide:[edit | edit source]
- Step-by-step re-installation guide
- Recommended hot-air stations
- Troubleshooting (pads lifted, board burnt, MOSFET stuck)
- Exact temperature for your MOSFET model (if you tell me the PCB type)
Would you like that?
References[edit | edit source]
- ↑ "MOSFET desoldering guide". ChatGPT. Retrieved 2025-12-13.