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This conversation was exported from ChatGPT[1]

gpt-5-2[edit | edit source]

User: 1985 Chevy Chieftain is boiling the water out of the batteries.[edit | edit source]

1985 Chevy Chieftain is boiling the water out of the batteries. What the possible cause in order of highest probability?

Assistant: On a 1985 Chevy Chieftain Chevy P-30/P-32 chassis RV, batteries boiling gassing hard, losing water is almost always an …[edit | edit source]

On a 1985 Chevy Chieftain (Chevy P-30/P-32 chassis RV), batteries boiling (gassing hard, losing water) is almost always an over-voltage problem. Here’s the probable causes ranked from most likely to least, with brief reasoning and what to check.

1️⃣ Failed Voltage Regulator (MOST LIKELY)[edit | edit source]

Why: That era Chevy uses an internal regulator in the alternator. When it fails, system voltage can jump to 15.5–18V, which will rapidly boil batteries.

Clues:

  • Battery caps hissing or bubbling
  • Strong sulfur smell
  • Headlights unusually bright
  • Multiple batteries affected

Check:

  • Measure voltage at battery with engine running - Normal: 13.8–14.4V - Boiling: anything above 14.8V

✅ If high → replace alternator (or regulator if serviceable)

2️⃣ Bad or Missing Engine / Chassis Ground[edit | edit source]

Why: A poor ground can trick the regulator into “thinking” voltage is low, so it overcharges.

Common on RVs due to:

  • Corrosion
  • Frame extensions
  • Added accessories

Check:

  • Inspect ground strap from engine to frame
  • Battery negative to frame
  • Measure voltage drop between alternator case and battery negative - Should be <0.2V

✅ Clean, tighten, or add grounds

3️⃣ RV Converter/Charger Stuck in Boost Mode[edit | edit source]

(If this happens while plugged into shore power)

Why: Old converters sometimes fail and output 15–16V continuously instead of tapering down.

Clues:

  • Batteries boil only when plugged in
  • Happens even with engine OFF

Check:

  • Measure voltage plugged in, engine off - Normal: 13.2–13.6V - Bad: 14.8V+

✅ Replace converter or upgrade to modern 3-stage charger

4️⃣ Wrong Battery Type or Mismatched Batteries[edit | edit source]

Why: Using:

  • Starting batteries instead of deep cycle
  • Mixed battery ages/types
  • AGM charged like flooded (or vice versa)

Can cause overheating and gassing.

Check:

  • Confirm battery type matches charging system
  • All batteries same type, age, and capacity

⚠️ This usually worsens boiling, but rarely causes it alone

5️⃣ Battery With Internal Short (LESS LIKELY but possible)[edit | edit source]

Why: A shorted cell lowers system voltage → alternator overworks → overheats other batteries.

Clues:

  • One battery hotter than others
  • Won’t hold charge
  • Low resting voltage (~10–11V)

Check:

  • Load test each battery individually
  • Disconnect suspect battery and recheck charging voltage

6️⃣ Temperature Compensation Failure (Rare on 1985, but possible)[edit | edit source]

Some aftermarket regulators or converters use temp sensors. If the sensor fails, voltage can skyrocket.

🔧 What to Do FIRST (Quick Diagnostic Order)[edit | edit source]

  1. Measure charging voltage at the batteries
  2. If >14.8V → alternator/regulator is bad
  3. Check and clean all grounds
  4. Test voltage plugged into shore power
  5. Load-test each battery

⚠️ Important Warning[edit | edit source]

Boiling batteries:

  • Can explode
  • Damage wiring and paint with acid vapor
  • Will destroy batteries quickly

👉 Disconnect charging sources until voltage is confirmed safe

If you want, tell me:

  • Does it boil while driving, plugged in, or both?
  • Chassis battery, house batteries, or all?
  • Measured voltage (if you have it)

I can pinpoint it very quickly from there.

References[edit | edit source]

  1. "Chevy Chieftain Battery Boiling". ChatGPT. Retrieved 2026-01-11.