Editing Openai/693badc9-4210-8009-8cef-6e33623dc878


{{DISPLAYTITLE:Best glue for gilding}}

''This conversation was exported from ChatGPT''<ref>{{cite web|title=Best glue for gilding|url=https://chatgpt.com/share/693badc9-4210-8009-8cef-6e33623dc878|publisher=ChatGPT|access-date=2026-01-18}}</ref>

== gpt-5-1 ==
=== User: what is the best glue for gold leaf gilding. ===
what is the best glue for gold leaf gilding.  and alternatives.

=== Assistant: Here’s what you need to know about the best glues/adhesives for gold leaf gilding, plus some good alternatives dependin… ===
Here’s what you need to know about the best glues/adhesives for gold leaf gilding, plus some good alternatives depending on your project type.

==== ### ====

Best for: Traditional gilding on wood, furniture, frames, sculpture.
Why it’s great:
* Long working time — gives you flexibility.
* Strong, permanent bond.
* Traditional choice for oil gilding.

✨ Best use: When your surface is porous or absorbent (e.g., gessoed wood).

===== Best for: Interiors, paper, canvas, decorative crafts. =====
Why it’s great:
* Low odor, easier cleanup.
* Fast drying.
* Perfect for water leaf (thinner gold leaf).

✨ Best use: Easier for beginners and non-professional projects.

===== Best for: Mixed media, acrylic paintings, craft projects. =====
Why it’s good:
* Works with gold leaf over acrylic paint.
* Can build texture and seal layers well.

⚠️ Note: Acrylic mediums are NOT as strong as traditional sizes for metallic leaf (especially metal leaf that is thicker).

==== ### ====
* Works ok for art/craft gilding on wood or paper.
* Best for replicating a size effect when traditional size isn’t available.
* Needs thin, even application.

Tip: Don’t glob it — too thick = wrinkles & poor adhesion.

===== - Good for adhesive gilding on paper/cardboard or irregular surfaces. =====
* Handy with metallic foils and imitation gold leaf.

⚠️ Not ideal for real metal leaf at fine detail — can be uneven.

===== - Traditional method using shellac resin dissolved in alcohol. =====
* Used historically on furniture, frames, decorative metalwork.

Pro tip: Control humidity & temperature — shellac size can be fussy.

===== - Any adhesive that accepts gold leaf (oil, acrylic, water, or alcohol-based). =====
* The word mordant just means “sticky for leaf,” not a specific product.

==== |     |     |     | ====
| --- | --- | --- |
|     |     |     |
|     |     |     |
|     |     |     |
|     |     |     |
|     |     |     |

==== ✅ Surface prep matters. Seal porous surfaces with primer or gesso first. ====
✅ Apply size evenly. Too thin = poor adhesion; too thick = long dry & tackiness issues.
✅ Follow tack time. Most sizes need to become tacky (not wet) before applying leaf.
✅ Seal the leaf. Use a sealer for soft metal leaf like copper or imitation leaf (optional for gold).

==== Best overall choice: ====
🔹 Oil-based gilding size — strongest, traditional, beautiful results.

Great alternatives:
🔹 Water-based size — beginner friendly
🔹 Acrylic mediums — for mixed media
🔹 PVA glue / spray adhesive — for craft & decorative uses

If you’d like, tell me what surface and project you’re working on and I can recommend a specific product and step-by-step application instructions!

=== User: going onto a model khufu pyramid ship prow and stern each approximately 60 x 20 x20mm, acrylic painted surface. ===
going onto a model khufu pyramid ship prow and stern each approximately 60 x 20 x20mm, acrylic painted surface.

=== Assistant: For a small model component like your Khufu pyramid ship prow and stern approx. ===
For a small model component like your Khufu pyramid ship prow and stern (approx. 60 × 20 × 20 mm) on an acrylic-painted surface, here are the best adhesive options ranked for control, durability, and ease on tiny surfaces:

=== ## ===

For small, detailed areas on a painted model, water-based gilding size is the safest, cleanest, and easiest to control.

===== - Works perfectly over acrylic paint =====
* Dries fast (15–30 min to tack)
* Doesn’t bleed, wrinkle, or reactivate the paint
* Very controllable with a tiny brush
* Gives a smooth finish at miniature scale

===== - Wunda Size =====
* Mont Marte Gold Leaf Size (cheap and available in AU)
* Speedball Mona Lisa Water-Based Size

=== If you don’t want to buy gilding size, acrylic gloss medium works surprisingly well over an acrylic-painted surface. ===

===== - Already compatible with your paint =====
* Easy cleanup
* Slower drying, giving more working time
* Good adhesion for small gold leaf areas

===== - Slightly less tacky than real size, so the leaf must be applied gently =====
* Slightly weaker long-term adhesion if the model is handled heavily

Still perfectly suitable for display models.

=== Thin it 1:1 with water and brush on a thin coat. ===

===== - Easy, cheap, accessible =====
* Works on small detailed areas

===== - Can dry unevenly =====
* Too thick → bumps under the leaf
* Best for craft-grade gilding, not fine work

=== - Spray adhesive → too imprecise for 60 mm model detail ===
* Oil-based size → overkill for acrylic-painted miniatures and can yellow edges
* Contact adhesive → too aggressive, messy
* Superglue → fogs, ruins leaf, cannot be controlled thinly enough

=== 1. Seal your acrylic paint (optional but recommended) A thin coat of acrylic gloss medium prevents lifting or peeling later. ===
# Apply water-based gilding size with a fine brush - Very thin layer - Let it dry until clear and slightly tacky (15–30 min for most brands)
# Apply gold leaf - Use a soft brush - Press gently; don’t burnish too hard on acrylic paint
# Seal the gold (optional, but good for models) - Use acrylic gloss medium or specific leaf sealer - Matte varnish will dull the gold, so use gloss if you want shine

=== You’ll probably use: ===
* Water-based size
* One single sheet of leaf will cover each end easily
* A pair of small soft makeup brushes works well at this scale

If you want, I can give you a step-by-step procedure specifically tailored to the Khufu ship model, including how to mask edges and avoid leaf creeping into carved detail.

=== User: both please ===
both please

=== Assistant: Great — I’ll give you A a simple materials/shopping list with real product suggestions and B a photo markup guide so yo… ===
Great — I’ll give you (A) a simple materials/shopping list with real product suggestions and **(B) a photo markup guide so you know exactly where to mask and where to gild on your model.

Before the markup itself, here’s your photo displayed for reference:

==== These are things you can easily get online or at art/craft stores: ====

===== 1. Water-based gilding size - Speedball Mona Lisa Water-Based Size (good and easy for minis) - Wunda Size (excellent for model gilding) =====
# Gold Leaf - Transfer gold leaf (24K imitation or real) — easier for tiny areas - Loose gold leaf sheets (if you want traditional)
# Soft brushes - Size brush: Small round brush (size 0 or 1, synthetic or sable) - Gilder’s tip: Soft goat-hair or soft makeup brush for laying leaf
# Fine tweezers - For handling tiny bits of leaf
# Low-tack masking tape - To protect areas you don’t want gilded
# Acrylic Gloss Medium (optional but recommended) - Winsor & Newton Galeria Gloss Medium - Liquitex Gloss Medium & Varnish
# Sealer (optional) - Acrylic gloss varnish for protection
# Clean tools - Cotton swabs - Soft tissue

==== Below is a simple annotated explanation, with markings you can imagine on your photo. If you want a true graphic file, I can generate one — just ask! ====

===== Mask these with low-tack tape before applying size: =====

➡️ 1. Deck and hull edges
Mask the flat deck around the prow/stern so size doesn’t creep onto the deck planking.

➡️ 2. Cabin detail
Mask the cabin bulwarks and any rails you don’t want gilded.

➡️ 3. Areas you want free of metal leaf
For example: the thin ribs, structural framing, or decorative carvings.

: 

===== Apply size only to these areas: =====

✨ A. Prow tip face
* The tiny forward-facing triangular/curved surface
* Will form a nice golden accent

✨ B. Stern midpoint band
* Looks great as a gilded strip
* Keep it narrow — a couple mm wide

✨ C. Optional small trim lines
* Any straight line or edge you want to highlight

: 

==== ### ====

Because the prow curves:
* Don’t try to use a big square of leaf
* Pre-cut small curved strips that match the curve
* Apply from tip outward

===== On the flat stern edge: =====
* Use slightly larger piece
* Smooth gently with soft brush

==== Let’s imagine a color overlay like this: ====

<syntaxhighlight>      ^   <-- (A) = Mask this deck with tape
     ___
    / G \   <-- (B) = Gilded area
   /     \
  | MASKED |  <-- all other areas taped off
  |_______|

</syntaxhighlight>

Where:
* G = area where you apply size then leaf
* MASKED = deck and railings taped off

==== Before you touch your actual piece: ====
* Do one test on a scrap board painted the same
* Practice size application and leaf placement
* That builds confidence and prevents mistakes on the real model

If you want, I can generate an actual marked-up version of your uploaded photo showing exactly where to mask and gild — just say “yes, mark it up!” and I’ll produce it for you.

=== User: where the gold leaf overlaps other gold leaf does the surface of the first layer need to be sized? ===
where the gold leaf overlaps other gold leaf does the surface of the first layer need to be sized?

=== Assistant: Short answer: No — you don’t need to re-size the first layer where gold leaf overlaps. ===
Short answer: No — you don’t need to re-size the first layer where gold leaf overlaps.

Here’s how it works:

=== So if: ===
* You apply size to the whole area in one go,
* Then lay the leaf in separate pieces,
* And one piece overlaps another piece…

…the overlap will NOT stick to the gold.
It will only stick where the size underneath is exposed and still tacky.

Gold leaf does not adhere to dry gold leaf — it only adheres to the size layer, not itself.

=== - The second piece simply floats over the first piece. ===
* When you softly brush/burnish, the overlapping parts fall away automatically.
* The leaf only “grabs” the exposed size underneath the seams.

This is why you almost always apply gold leaf in patches or strips, and it stays neat.

=== Only if: ===
* You discover a gap with no size underneath,
* OR you accidentally touched/rubbed an area and removed the tack before laying leaf.

In that case:
# Dab a tiny bit of size just in that small area,
# Wait for it to tack again,
# Apply a scrap of leaf.

=== When doing the curved prow: ===
* Apply the size to the whole gilding area at once.
* Lay small curved pieces of leaf.
* Overlaps fall off; gaps fill automatically.
* You trim the very edges clean with brush or scalpel.

You will not need to size the first leaf layer even if a second leaf strip crosses over it.

If you want, I can give you a best practice sequence for laying multiple small leaf pieces on curves like your prow.

=== User: I think that I have had my 5 qustions for today? ===
I think that I have had my 5 qustions for today?

=== Assistant: No worries at all — you’re not capped or locked out. ===
No worries at all — you’re not capped or locked out.
You can keep asking as many questions as you like.

If you’ve got more about the gold leaf, the Khufu ship, tools, methods, or anything else, go right ahead!

=== User: great. ===
great. ok, Could I see your best practice sequence for laying multiple pieces please?

=== Assistant: Absolutely — here is the cleanest, safest, least-frustrating method for gilding a small curved surface like the prow of… ===
Absolutely — here is the cleanest, safest, least-frustrating method for gilding a small curved surface (like the prow of your Khufu ship) using multiple small pieces of gold leaf.

This is the method used by miniature gilders, icon restorers, and model builders who need perfect seams without re-sizing.

=== ⭐ Best Practice Sequence for Laying Multiple Gold Leaf Pieces on a Small Curved Area ===

==== 1. Mask the Surroundings ====
* Use low-tack masking tape to frame the exact gilding zone.
* Press down firmly at the edges so the size doesn’t creep underneath.
* Cover the deck and cabin areas so stray leaf can’t touch them.

=== ⭐ 2. Apply the Size (All at Once) ===
* Use a fine brush (size 0–1).
* Apply one thin, even coat over the entire area you intend to gild.
* No pooling, no streaks, no dry patches.

Why:
You want one continuous tack zone so all pieces of leaf adhere uniformly.

=== ⭐ 3. Wait for the Correct Tack ===

This is the most important part:
* The size must be glossy → then semi-gloss → then clear → then slightly tacky.
* Test tack with your knuckle or a scrap stick — it should feel like the sticky side of tape, not wet.

Typical timing: 15–30 minutes for water-based size.

=== ⭐ 4. Pre-cut Small Leaf Pieces ===

For a curved miniature like the prow:
* Cut leaf into tiny curved or rectangular tiles roughly 5–10 mm across.
* Transfer leaf (on backing) is easiest to cut.
* Loose leaf is easier to shape, but more delicate.

Rule: Small pieces = fewer wrinkles = cleaner edges.

=== ⭐ 5. Lay the First Piece at the Most Visible Area ===

This is usually the front tip or the highest point.
* Gently place the leaf on the tack.
* Lightly press with a soft brush.
* Don’t worry if it wrinkles — the next pieces cover tiny imperfections.

=== ⭐ 6. Lay the Second Piece Overlapping the First by 1–2 mm ===

This overlap is intentional.
* Place the next piece slightly overlapping the first.
* Light brushing makes the overlap break cleanly — the gold only sticks where tack is beneath it.
* Excess leaf falls away.

Important:
You do not size the first leaf layer — the size underneath is what catches the second piece.

=== ⭐ 7. Continue Around the Curve With Small Pieces ===

Move around the curve like laying tiles:

<syntaxhighlight>[1] [2] [3]
   [4] [5]

</syntaxhighlight>
* Overlap edges slightly.
* Use soft brushing to settle the leaf.
* Let the tack pull the leaf down — don’t force it.

=== ⭐ 8. Gently Burnish Only With a Soft Brush ===

Never use a hard tool on acrylic-painted miniatures.

Use:
* soft hake brush
* very soft makeup brush
* squirrel or goat hair gilder’s mop

Brush in short, light strokes to settle the leaf into recesses.

=== ⭐ 9. Deal With Gaps ===

If you see a tiny exposed line:
* Touch that spot with a micro-dot of size (toothpick or 5/0 brush).
* Wait 5 minutes until tacky.
* Apply a tiny leaf scrap, press, sweep away excess.

These “patches” disappear after sealing.

=== ⭐ 10. Remove Masking Tape ===

Do this before sealing, so the tape doesn’t lift any leaf.
* Pull tape away at a sharp angle.
* Brush excess leaf dust away.

You’ll now have clean, sharp gilded boundaries.

=== ⭐ 11. Seal the Leaf (Strongly Recommended for Models) ===

Use:
* Acrylic gloss medium
* OR a dedicated leaf sealer

Apply:
* One very thin coat with a fine brush.
* Avoid pooling — it dulls the gold.

Optional:
* A second extremely thin coat for durability.

=== 🧭 Notes for Your Khufu Prow Specifically ===
* Because the prow leans forward, gravity helps — leaf sits nicely.
* Use very small leaf tiles to follow its compound curve.
* The model seems small enough that 3 or 4 pieces will cover the visible gold area cleanly.
* For the stern upper edge, you can use a single strip rather than tiles.

If you want, I can also give you a visual diagram of the “tile sequence” specifically for your prow shape — just say so and I’ll draw it out.

=== User: I think that is enough information. ===
I think that is enough information. I will return tomorrow if necessary. thank you.

=== Assistant: You’re very welcome — glad I could help. ===
You’re very welcome — glad I could help.
If you need anything tomorrow (or any time), just drop in.

Good luck with the gilding!

== gpt-5-t-mini ==
=== User: srep by step yes please ===
srep by step yes please

=== Assistant: Nice photo — that helps a lot. ===
Nice photo — that helps a lot. Below is a focused, plug-and-play step-by-step for gilding the prow and stern of your Khufu ship model (≈60 × 20 × 20 mm) on an acrylic-painted surface. I’ll assume you want a bright, durable finish and minimal fuss.

=== - Water-based gilding size (aka acrylic size / water size) — best for acrylic paint and small work. Optional: acrylic gloss medium if you can’t get size. ===
* Gold leaf — either loose 22–24K gold leaf squares or transfer (gilder’s) leaf. Transfer leaf is easier for tiny areas; loose leaf gives more old-school control.
* Fine pointed sable brush or small synthetic painting brush (0 or 1) for applying size.
* Soft gilder’s tip (goat-hair brush) or a very soft small makeup brush / hake brush to pick up and lay leaf.
* Tweezers (fine) or a folded piece of paper for handling leaf.
* Masking tape (low-tack) and a sharp hobby knife / scalpel for clean edges.
* Cotton swabs / soft tissue for removing excess and burnishing gently.
* Small piece of scratch paper or a scrap model part to test tack.
* Acrylic gloss medium or dedicated leaf sealer for final protection (applied very thinly).
* Small cup of distilled water and paper towel for cleanup.

=== 1. Clean the area. Gently remove dust with a soft dry brush. ===
# Seal the paint (optional but recommended). If your acrylic paint is matte or uneven, brush a very thin coat of acrylic gloss medium to seal and let it fully dull to the “normal” surface (you want the paint stable; don’t apply wet size onto wet paint).
# Mask around the area. Use low-tack tape to mask the deck/edges so you only gild the intended area. Press tape down so size doesn’t creep under. If the prow/stern has carved detail you want to keep free, mask that area too.

=== 1. Prepare the leaf: If using transfer leaf (on tissue), cut a piece slightly larger than the area using a sharp blade; if using loose leaf squares, separate one square and fold it onto a backing to move it easier. For each prow/stern you’ll only need a strip or small patch — trimming later is easy. ===
# Work near still air. Gold leaf is very light; stop any fans or drafts.

=== 1. Brush a thin, even coat of water-based size onto the exact area with a very small brush. Keep the layer even — not glossy puddles, not dry patches. Slightly overpaint the edge so you have a margin to trim to. ===
# Wait for tack. Don’t try to apply leaf while the size is wet and shiny; wait until the size becomes clear and slightly tacky (test on scrap — it should feel “sticky” but not transfer wet size to a fingertip). (I’m describing feel/appearance rather than a clock time.)

=== 1. Transfer the leaf carefully: use the gilder’s tip/soft brush or tweezers to bring the leaf over the tacky area. If using transfer leaf, lay the tissue on and press gently; if using loose leaf, carefully lay the metal onto the tacky surface. ===
# Gently press/seat the leaf. Use the soft brush (or a cotton ball) to push leaf into place and over the edges. Take care at the curved prow — small gentle strokes work better than hard burnishing. Avoid heavy burnishing on acrylic paint; you only need to seat the leaf.
# Remove excess leaf. Use the gilder’s tip or a soft brush to sweep away loose bits. For tiny crevices, a cotton swab rolled tight works well.

=== 1. Trim stray edges. If leaf overlaps masked edges, remove your tape. Trim any excess with a very sharp blade or tiny scissors. For super clean border lines, gently drag the blade once at a shallow angle — the leaf tears cleanly. ===
# Touchups. If there are tiny gaps, you can dab a little size into the gap and apply a scrap of leaf with the tip.

=== 1. Seal the leaf with an ultra-thin coat of acrylic gloss medium (or dedicated leaf sealer). Use a very small brush and thin the sealer if needed; apply with light strokes and avoid puddles. This prevents rubbing off when handling. Matte varnish will dull the shine — if you want a satin look, use satin varnish sparingly. ===
# Final inspection & gentle buff. When sealed, you may very gently buff with a soft cloth if you like extra sheen — but don’t overdo it.

=== - For the prow’s curved tips, pre-trim leaf into a curved strip and apply small overlapping pieces rather than one big piece — this reduces wrinkling. ===
* Transfer leaf (on tissue) is easiest for tiny, precise shapes; you can cut the tissue to shape first.
* If the model will be handled a lot, consider two thin coats of sealer rather than one.
* Do a practice run on a scrap strip of acrylic-painted wood (same paint/finish) to dial in your tack feel and technique.

=== - Wrinkled leaf: leaf put on too wet or moved while tacky. Remove loose bits, let size fully tack on next try. ===
* Gaps/patchy adhesion: size too thin or uneven. Fill gaps with fresh size and a small scrap of leaf.
* Leaf rubs off: sealer too thin — apply a thin second coat.
* Gold dulls after sealer: sealer was matte or applied thick — try a thin gloss coat instead.

If you want, I can:
* Give a short materials shopping list with Australian product suggestions, or
* Mark up the photo with exactly where to mask and how to cut the leaf (I can do that now if you want).

Which would you prefer?

== References ==
<references />


[[Category:ChatGPT Shares]]
[[Category:openai]]